**I need advice! Please read on and comment below if you can help!**
Yay, for finally catching up on my blogging. Boo, for not being very pleased with my newest project.
This is a muslin of view A of Butterick 5568. Hey, I made a muslin! Actually it’s a polyester cause it was on sale and I’m really cheap.
Anyway…the “muslin” is pretty rough. I basically used all baste stitches, didn’t hem, etc., etc. I just wanted to get a better idea of things before I cut into my nice suiting fabric, which by the way, I’m not too sure about. It’s a beige/black plaid type pattern, but it’s dry clean only. I knew this when I bought it, but decided to go with it. I like the fabric, but I just HATE to dry clean. First, dry cleaning can be expensive. Second, I never seem to actually go to the dry cleaners, so my clothes just sit there for a long time waiting to get cleaned and I don’t actually get to wear them. Third, I’m kind of freaked out by the chemicals used by dry cleaners, even the “eco-friendly” ones. So I’m still on the fence on how to pre-treat the fabric and then later clean the garment. I tried hand washing a swatch, and things seem fine, but I’m still nervous to destroy three yards of nice fabric.
But I digress. Muslin. This polyester is a very different fabric from the actual suiting material, so I have to give some leeway. However, fit is fit, and here’s my biggest issue. I cut a size smaller than I would normally because everything has been large on me lately. The waist fits pretty well, but the bust and underarms are ridiculously baggy. You can’t really tell from the picture, but the arm hole allowance is unnecessarily large, which requires that the diameter of the sleeves be large, which makes the whole thing look baggy and sloppy. Not a fan.
So, is there an easy fix to this? It seems to me that I would need to redraft the pattern and draw new arm hole allowances above the current pieces in the pattern. And maybe take in the sides around the ribcage a bit. Is this correct?
I also don’t like the collar – it’s two pieces seamed in the back (back view is to the right). WHA??? I double-check my RTW jackets just to make sure I wasn’t being hypercritical, and none have a seam in the back of the collar. I looked over the pattern again, and from what I can tell without making a muslin first is that views C and D are not seamed in the back, so maybe I’ll switch to one of those.
Worse case scenario, I was thinking about changing patterns entirely and making Eva from burdastyle. Anyone make that one before?
If you have any suggestions how to fix the arm allowance/bagginess problem, please comment! I’m stuck!
Oh, and by the way, I made a duct tape dress form! That’s kind of a funny story…maybe I’ll get around to blogging about that…